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Controlling silverfish

Want to get rid of silverfish? Johan shares his 6-step plan that really works. From moisture control to prevention - everything you need to know.

Fighting silverfish: my six-step plan

Good news: silverfish control you can often do yourself. Unlike bedbugs or cockroaches, silverfish are relatively easy to tackle. I always use the same approach - and it works. Let me explain my six-step plan.

Step 1: Tackle The Moisture Problem (MOST IMPORTANT)

This is the most important step of all. Silverfish cannot live without high humidity. If you remove the moisture, they often disappear on their own. What should you do?

Improve ventilation: Open windows during and after showering (10-15 minutes), turn on the extractor (and leave it running for 15 minutes after), leave the bathroom door open after use (so moisture drains away), and consider a moisture eliminator or dehumidifiers.

Repairing leaks: Check under sinks and sinks for leaks, repair dripping taps immediately, and seal cracks in tiles and joints (moisture can soak in there).

Measure humidity: Buy a humidity meter (hygrometer) for 10-15 euros. Ideal humidity: 40-60%. Above 70%? Then you have a problem. Below 50%, silverfish cannot survive.

Trust me: this is 50% of the solution. I have had customers who did just this and had no silverfish after 2 weeks.

Step 2: Thorough cleaning

Silverfish hide everywhere. A thorough cleaning will help you find them ánd get rid of them. What should you do?

Vacuum everywhere: Especially in corners, crevices, behind cupboards, under furniture, and around pipes. Use the narrow nozzle for crevices. Vacuuming removes silverfish, eggs and their food (dander, hair).

Wash all textiles: Towels, bath mats, curtains - wash everything at a minimum of 60 degrees. Silverfish can be in textiles.

Clean up: Piles of newspapers, magazines, boxes - throw away or move to dry place. The less clutter, the fewer hiding places.

After cleaning: keep it clean. Vacuum weekly. Because silverfish will come back if conditions remain the same.

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Step 3 & 4: Block access and baiting devices

Now that we have addressed and cleaned the moisture, we move on to silverfish control by blocking access as well as using bait.

Step 3: Block all accesses

Silverfish are small (1cm) and can pass through tiny cracks. Time to close those.

Seal all gaps: Around pipes (under sink, behind toilet, near heating pipes), in tile joints that are loosening, between floor and skirting boards, and around vents (use fine mesh).

Check doors: Use draught strips at the bottom of doors (silverfish crawl under them). Pay attention to door to basement or attic.

Repair damage: Loose tiles, broken joints, holes in walls - fix everything. Every crack is a potential hiding place.

Step 4: Use lures

Now we are going to actively fight them. There are several remedies that work:

Diatomaceous earth (earth powder) - BEST DIY OPTION: This natural powder dries out silverfish. Sprinkle it in cracks, behind cupboards, along skirting boards, and around pipes. Keep it dry - wet powder does not work. Replace weekly. Effect seen after 1-2 weeks. Advantages: natural, safe for pets, also works against other insects.

Bori c acid (borax) - EFFECTIVE: Toxic to silverfish (and other insects). Sprinkle it in the same places as diatomaceous earth. CAUTION: Do not use if you have pets or small children! Wash your hands after use. Effect after 1-2 weeks.

Bait boxes: There are special silverfish-looking boxes (DIY store, 10-15 euros). Place them in bathroom, kitchen, cellar - everywhere you see them. Replace every 2-3 months. Effect lasts 2-3 weeks.

My preference? Diatomaceous earth. Works well, is safe, and cheap. A 1kg bag costs 10 euros and lasts for years.

Steps 5 & 6: Food removal and prevention

We are almost done with silverfish control. The last two steps keep them from coming back.

Step 5: Remove Food Sources

Silverfish eat paper, cardboard, starch, sugar and textiles. The less food, the less silverfish.

Customise storage: Store books in closed cabinets (not open bookshelves in damp rooms). Use plastic storage bins instead of cardboard boxes. Store flour, sugar and oats in tightly sealed jars. Wash laundry immediately (don't leave it with sweat stains).

Cleaning up clutter: Old newspapers and magazines - throw away or move to dry area. Cardboard boxes - replace with plastic or throw away. Old wallpaper that is coming loose - remove or repair.

Keeping clean: Vacuum regularly (removes dander and hair). Clean bathroom after use. Clean up crumbs in kitchen immediately.

Step 6: Long-Term Prevention

You have them gone now, but how do you keep them away? These are my prevention tipi ps:

Humidity monitoring: Check weekly with your humidity meter. Stay below 60% humidity. Ventilate daily, especially after showering.

Regular inspections: Check bathroom, kitchen and basement monthly. Look for new silverfish. Early detection = easy control.

Maintenance: Repair leaks immediately. Replace broken joints. Keep drains clean (no hair clogs that silverfish will attract).

Checking out new stuff: Check cardboard boxes before bringing them in. Inspect second-hand books and items.

If you follow these 6 steps, you will be rid of silverfish within 2-4 weeks. And they won't come back if you keep up the prevention.

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What does NOT work (save your money)

The internet is full of silverfish control tips that don't work. I have seen them all with clients. Let me tell you honestly what is a waste of money.

Essential Oils and Herbs

Lavender, peppermint, citronella, cedarwood - I hear it constantly. “Johan, I sprayed lavender oil everywhere!” Alas: it doesn't work. Maybe it keeps them at bay temporarily (very temporarily), but it doesn't kill them. And after a few days they get used to it. Save the 15 euros for that oil.

Cucumber slices and potato

This Pinterest advice: put down cucumber slices or potato, silverfish will descend on it, then throw it away. Problem: yes, they might come down on the food. But you don't kill them. They eat of it and leave again. You only feed them. This is not control, this is catering.

Vacuuming only

Some people think, “I just vacuum them up every day”. Problem: you only vacuum up the silverfish you see. But there are hundreds hiding in cracks. And they lay eggs. If you don't address the moisture problem, they keep coming. Vacuuming is a SUBSTANCE of control, not the solution.

Supermarket insect spray

That general bug spray from 8 euros? Little effect on silverfish. You might kill the bugs you hit directly, but the rest survive. And it doesn't solve the moisture problem. Plus: it is chemical, not healthy in your bathroom where you are daily. Rather, use diatomaceous earth - works better and is safer.

Ultrasonic devices

Those plugs that make ultrasonic sounds? On silverfish: zero effect. I tested it. The silverfish just walk over them. Save the 20-30 euros.

Frequently asked questions about silverfish control

I often get these questions about controlling silverfish. Want to know more? Call for advice.

The quickest approach: tackle the moisture problem (ventilate better, repair leaks, keep humidity below 60%), do a thorough cleaning (vacuum everywhere, especially cracks and corners), sprinkle diatomaceous earth in all hiding places and cracks, and remove food sources (paper, cardboard, rubbish). You will see results within 1-2 weeks. But beware: without solving the moisture problem, they will come back. Moisture is the root cause - solve that and silverfish often disappear on their own.

Yes, very effective! Diatomaceous earth (also called earth powder) consists of microscopic sharp particles that damage the protective layer of silverfish. As a result, they dry out and die. How to use: sprinkle a thin layer in cracks, behind cupboards, along skirting boards, around pipes. Keep it dry - wet powder does not work. Replace weekly. Effect can be seen after 1-2 weeks. Advantages: natural product, safe for pets and children, also works against other insects, and cheap (1kg costs ~10 euros). This is my number 1 DIY recommendation.

With proper approach: 2-4 weeks. Week 1: Address moisture problem + clean-up + place remedies. You may see MORE silverfish (they come out of their hiding places). Week 2-3: Number decreases. Remedies start to work. Week 4: Usually no more silverfish visible. Note: this only works if you solve the moisture problem. Without it, they keep coming, even with treatment. With professional treatment: often faster (7-14 days), but moisture problem still needs to be addressed.

Yes, definitely! Prevention is even easier than fighting them. Here's how to prevent them: keep humidity below 60% (ventilate well, use extraction), repair leaks immediately, vacuum regularly (removes their food: dander), store paper and cardboard in dry rooms or plastic bins, check new boxes before bringing them inside, and seal cracks and holes. If you do this, you won't get silverfish. They can only survive in high humidity (70%+). Keep it dry and they won't come.

No, not effective. Lavender, peppermint, citronella - they don't work to kill silverfish. Maybe they keep silverfish away very temporarily, but they don't die from it. After a few days, silverfish get used to the smell and just come back. The internet is full of this advice, but it doesn't work in practice. Save the money. Rather, use diatomaceous earth or borax - they do work. More importantly, tackle the moisture problem. That is the real solution.

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